Gearboat Chronicles

Winding Waters River Expeditions runs the Snake River in Hells Canyon, the lower Salmon in Idaho and the Grande Ronde River in northeast Oregon. The guests tell me it's very luxurious, floating through all this wilderness in style. I row the gearboat, so I wouldn't know. These dispatches are a behind-the-oars view of life in the cargo barge.

Operation: Grande Ronde River Steelhead Monday, October 31, 2011

So a rig pulls into my driveway yesterday looking like this:

And I think: Oh, great, they finally tracked me down. Can't trust those witness relocation people farther than you can throw them. And now I'll be beaten with flyrods just like that last time in Singapore when I was in that prison and . . . wait, no . . . it's my pal Tom Farnum. Pheww. So I put the baseball bat back in its place by the front door and we talked fishing.

And it was good talk. Farnum's been racking up successful day after successful day on the Grande Ronde. Better yet, he had a day coming up when he wouldn't be guiding and since Tom fishes every day, on his days off he, well, goes fishing.

And that day is tomorrow. I imagine seeing something along these lines:

Or these lines:

Just as long as there's a line and a steelhead or two or four on the end of it, I'll chalk that up to a day well-spent.

To illustrate the allure of steelhead season here in the Wallowas, allow me to direct your attention to my travel plans for later this week. I shall be boarding an airplane for the islands of Hawaii, where I'll enjoy much beach time with my dear family in ideal weather -- and yet . . . and yet . . . I find myself regretting that this trip coincides with the steelhead run.

I'm pretty sure I'll get over that, but I'm glad to get in one more day on the river before boarding the plane for paradise and with any luck Tom and I will be hearing the sweet sweet music of a racing drag tomorrow.

I'll let you know how it goes.

And, as always, if you find yourself wearing your waders around the house, or making casting motions from your desk at work or show any signs that you'd much, much rather be going after Grande Ronde River steelhead than working on that boring Haskins account -- here's what we'll do . . . you contact Winding Waters Steelhead Headquarters and set up your own day on the river with Tom -- then if you need a cover story for the boss, just let me know and I'll dust off my old covert operations work kit from when I was an operative in Singapore and I'll set you up with an ironclad alibi that will they'll never see through. Trust me.

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Breaking News: Steelhead Are Fun to Catch Monday, October 24, 2011

The Purple Peril. Just whispering those words over the water of a steelhead run make fish gnash their teeth, sing rugby songs and prepare for battle.

Winding Waters fishing guide Tom Farnum did it again recently, on a clear Fall day along the Grande Ronde River, directing placement of the Peril where it would justify its name. Three fish came to the bank that day, after rising to those strategic swings.

More fish went for it, and narrowly avoided a trip to the bank. They are right now sitting around an underwater campfire, spreading the legend of the Peril and scaring other fish with stories of this Tom Farnum -- the boogeyman of Wallowa Valley steelhead.

Farnum is not feared by those he fishes with. Instead, he provokes this reaction pictured below: smiling.

This guy could have been at work instead. Not sure if he regretted that decision.

I even got in on the game, landing a wild steelhead yesterday. I'm not really smiling in the photo, but that's because I'm mean. Just plain mean. And focused.

This fish was doubly satisfying because my fly tying has improved and it's just nice to catch a fine fish on something you've put together yourself. My original attempts looked like a fourth grader's arts and crafts project gone bad -- but the latest models sort of resemble real flies and they're holding together well.

It was t-shirt weather. Sunny. Fish were active. Catching nice, plump trout in between steelhead strikes. Tough to beat. Take a gander at this shot and try to come up with places you'd rather be:

That's Mike Baird up at the head of the pool. He latched into two steelhead right there.

Right now is one of my favorite times of year in the Wallowas. Even the poison ivy is pretty this time of year. Check it out:

Want to get in on this? Not the poison ivy...though it is kind of pretty, you have to admit....I mean steelhead fishing, Wallowa County style.

For guided steelhead fishing with the notorious Tom Farnum, or catered floats down the Wallowa and Grande Ronde rivers, Winding Waters is here to help.

Fish on.

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Grande Ronde steelhead fishing Monday, October 17, 2011

He's a cowboy. He's a rafting guide. And everything in between. The only thing I've found that's not on Craig Nichols' resume' is astronaut. And there's still time for that.

Craig had himself a big ol' surprise birthday party this past weekend. Happy birthday, Nichols. If you missed it, wish him a happy one on your next river trip with Craig.

And snake handler. That's also on his resume'.

Craig's gourmet grass-fed Corriente beef cows are so happy you can often see them playing frisbee out in the field when you drive by the 6 Ranch on the way out of the valley.

But protein comes in many forms and you don't get any more free-range than swimming around out in the ocean, then swimming right back to the Wallowa Mountains.

Grande Ronde River steelhead have been on a monumental trip out to the big blue and back. So if you manage to link up with one via flyrod, they don't just throw in the towel.

You'd best adjust your drag and get ready for a wrestling match. They peel line. They leap. They jump out of the water and make fun of your stupid hat. Grande Ronde River steelhead are known for their coarse language and fighting dirty. It's something to do with the minerals in the water running off the majestic Wallowa Mountains. Makes them ornery. Even the hatchery fish, though they don't use as much slang and naughty words when they're cursing you in the middle of a fight.

600 more Wallowa County steelhead came over Granite Dam in the last numbers update from our fish scientist sources.

The Winding Waters steelhead support trip that came down the Wallowa and Grande Ronde last week hooked up with good numbers, after one day where the rains brought the river up and slowed things down a touch . . . but the waters have settled in and look to be holding there, so the Grande Ronde and Wallowa River steelheading is looking good, folks.

To refresh your memory on the difference between normal fishing, and steelhead fishing, I present this photo comparison exercise:

Photo A is of a smallmouth bass. Fun to catch . . .


But, uhhhh . . . .

Get a load of this one here:


Both of Paul's arms actually broke off at the wrists after holding this fish for just a few seconds. It was that heavy.

Fish swam away just fine, but I had to splint Paul's hands back on using sticks and some tippet.

Speaking of tippet, here's a look at the Grande Ronde fall colors that will be your backdrop while tying on new flies. Pretty, huh?

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Steelhead movin' on up the Grande Ronde Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Take heed, fisherfolks: Winding Waters fishing guide Tom Farnum has made contact with heads of steel above the sleepy village of Troy, Oregon.

Farnum and cohort Brian Oliver, pictured below grasping a fish, each landed a steelie last week above Troy, which is good news for everyone that they're moving up the system, but especially fine news for our crew down there right now enjoying four days of catered meals and deluxe camps along the Wallowa and Grande Ronde on their steelhead sortee from Minam to Troy.


Tom and Brian picked these fish up on the swing. We had some rain late last week, then the flows settled. More lightish rain last couple days and settling again. Should be good. Should be real good.

This wild fish was so wild it wouldn't hold still for the camera.

If you want to carpe four diems with a super-cush steelhead mission of your very own....we make the coffee, the dinners, the lunches, the breakfasts-es....heat up the wall tent, chip the cocktail ice -- the only thing we don't do is catch the fish for you. And, hey, if you'd rather go that route we can do that too.

If that sounds up your alley, then depress your mouse button upon this right here and start gathering your waders and fly boxes.

I've got my fishing gear by the door, ready to go just as soon as I finish up some winterizing and pre-winter projects....but I'll tell you what, today I very nearly chucked the responsible route and just went fishing. Still might, truth be told. And tomorrow I fear I won't even pretend to do anything other than head straight for the river.

See you there.

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Wallowa and Grande Ronde steelhead picking up Monday, October 3, 2011

Misty eagle posing along on the Grande Ronde.

Last I saw Paul, Penny and Linden they were heading for the Oregon Coast, towing the drift boat and planning on drifting it to set crab pots. I look forward to reports on how a drift boat operates on the ocean.

Last I heard from Morgan, he was heading for the mountains to do the cooking for a crew conducting a bull trout survey on the upper Imnaha. Been serving them vittles for some years now.

Chef Mo also has a regular catering gig on the Umatilla Reservation, keeping bellies full for a gathering there each fall. That guy can orchestrate some big meals.

Here he is orchestrating some kind of stew with dried fruit and what looks to be a bag of chips. Interesting.

As for me, I've been on a woodcutting rampage this last week, choppin' me some firewoods and storing up BTUs on the front porch. Look here at my precision tree falling....not everyone can balance a lodgepole pine onto a stump like this.

Nor would they want to.

Been out in the woods with Mike Baird, both for hunting season and firewood detail. Here's Baird working his elk bugle up above the Imnaha River.


He took me on some downright strenuous hikes, Baird did. Had to buy a whole new supply of moleskin it got so bad.

Once the wood supply is topped off I plan on trading the chainsword for the flyrod and going after these steelhead heading back to Wallowa County streams.

Here's the latest fishing report from the Joseph Fly Shoppe.


10-2-11 Steelhead are starting to trickle-up the Grande Ronde, but forcast rains this week could really help. Plug guides below Bogan's are finding steelies most days with one boat last week reporting 6. Water temps in the Ronde are good but low flows are the biggest problem. Counts over the dams are very good. The Imnaha is still too low to attract steelhead, although a few have been caught. Trout fishing on the Wallowa has been good.

Stop in and see Rob when you get to town and add some local favorites to your fly box.

Speaking of fish, here's an underwater view of kokanee above Wallowa Lake, taken a few weeks ago:

Fishing guide Tom Farnum is in his element right now, with the steelhead coming on and being out on his home waters of the Wallowa and Grande Ronde rivers.

Click on this here for guided fishing outings with Tom.

Or, you know what? Why not just admit you love fishing, gather like-minded folks and go the deluxe route with a supported trip down the Wallowa and Grande Ronde . . . that means you fish all day and roll into camp where Winding Waters has set up the wall tent and has appetizers waiting. We do all the cooking, send you off in the morning for more fishing and scoot on down the river to set up another lovely camp for you to roll into after another glorious day of fishing. It's kind of great. Read more about it here.

See you on the river.

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